from Makeup Artists to the stars, Nikol Johnson & Sandy Linter.
- Moisturise! Moisturise! Moisturise!
As we have mentioned before, moisturizing is the essential first step to prep your skin for makeup no matter what your age. Makeup Artist Sandy Linter recommends La Mer’s Crème de la Mer Moisturizing Cream, which is an excellent moisturizer and scored a high # 2 in our moisturizer research findings. Don’t forget to apply your favorite facial sunscreen!
- Prime those eyes.
Nikol avoids applying concealer or foundation on the eyelids because it can make the eye makeup crease, and settle into fine lines and wrinkles. She suggests using a separate primer made just for the eyes to even out any discoloration on the lids. The eyelid primer will also help keep your eye makeup looking fresh and stay in place all day long. We like Lune + Aster Eyelid Primer found on Amazon for under $23.00.
- The base.
Choose a hydrating foundation, like Kevyn Auction’s The Etherealist formula. Try applying foundation with your fingertips, a slightly damp sponge or makeup brush for light coverage, and a dry makeup brush for medium coverage. Women with older skin should avoid thick or heavy face makeup. It will settle into their creases and make them appear older. When choosing your concealer and foundation, instead of choosing an exact match, as you did when you were younger, try choosing a color one or two shades warmer to prevent a pale, “washed-out” look. When doing this, it’s important to blend the foundation slightly beyond the jawline down onto the neck to erase any obvious lines of demarcation.
Then, use an easily bendable, lightweight creamy concealer like – Giorgio Armani’s High Precision Retouch Concealer. It’s Liner’s favorite to use on the ruddy or hyper-pigmented face areas. For the eye area, concentrate on the dark areas around the inner corner, and under the eye where the pigmentation is the darkest. Avoid extending the concealer to the outer corners of the eye because it can enhance any fine lines or wrinkles that you may have there.
- Powder or not?
Liner usually skips the face powder, but when she does use it, her number one choice is Dermablend Banana Powder. When using face powder, apply to the T zone areas first and then lightly dust the other areas of your face.
- For a natural glow
When applying your bronzer, apply lightly under cheekbones, to the sides of the nose, across the forehead, and under the jawline. Don’t forget to include your décolletage area (the area between the base of the neck to the top of the breasts). Bronzer gives older skin a desirable, natural-looking, warm “glow”. Try Serge Lutens’s Complexion Perfector.
Liner instructs to avoid applying blush powder or cream to the apples of your cheeks, as we’ve always been taught. Instead, start the application at the top of the cheekbones (in front of the ears) and blend it lightly toward the apples of the cheek. This technique gives a “lifted” appearance to the face. Try MAC’s Powder Blush in your favorite color. For a more dramatic look, try applying a cream blush like – Stila Convertible Color, before applying your face powder and powder blush. Sometimes just the Stila Convertible Color will be all you need.
- Line Those Lips
Lips should be lined in a shade that is close to your own lips color with a texture that is soft and glides on smoothly. Apply lip liner to the lips using 4 separate strokes starting with the upper corner of the mouth upwards to the dip of the cupid’s bow on each side and from the corners of the bottom lip to the lips center.
- Lip Play
Fill in the lips with a matt lipstick in a darker shade. Apply with a lip brush starting at the cupid’s bow and blend toward the corners of the upper lip. Then from the center of the bottom lip to its two corners. Diffuse the lip liner and lipstick edges using light feathery strokes with a lip brush in the same manner as you applied the lip liner. Depending on your preference, a non-sticky, light-textured lip gloss can be applied over the lipstick.
During the day, I prefer wearing lip gloss lined or alone. My favorite lip gloss can be found in the REALHER Lip Kit – I Am Awesome (Deep Nudes). I also love the way Ciate’s London Watermelon Burst Hydrating Lip Oil makes my lips feel and for a daytime hint of color, I use jane iredale’s Just Kissed Lip and Cheek Stain, Forever Pink. This moisturizing, low-gloss, colorless lip stain has staying power. It goes on clear and immediately self-adjusts to a hint of pink color that’s dictated by your lip’s unique chemistry. It can also be used on the bare cheeks as a blush for a refreshing barely-there “just pinched” look on the days you don’t want to wear a lot of makeup.
- Dramatizes the Eyes
Thicken the lash area with a waterproof, super soft, creamy mechanical pencil eyeliner like Lancôme’s Le Crayon Khôl in Black Coffee, or choose nice charcoal or black. Line the eyes by placing the pencil right into the lash line and smudging it with short back and forth strokes to make the lashes appear thicker and more defined. Then, to give your eyes a more lifted look. Start at the last lash of your upper lid and draw a small line straight up, (making sure the line does not wander out past the outer corner of the eye) and come back down and inward toward the eyelash area (to make a small wedge or triangle shape). Then, fill in the wedge area with the eye pencil.
- Nourish Those Lashes!
The first important step to having perfect eyelashes is to apply an eyelash curler gently to the very base of your lashes for ten seconds. Then apply the mascara by placing the mascara brush at the very base of your lashes and wiggling the brush slightly in a back and forth motion upwards toward their tips. It is critical to choose a non-clumpy mascara. Having clumpy eyelashes can dramatically age a woman. Your goal is to create a fresh, wide-eyed youthful look, and finding the right mascara can be a lot of trial and error. Liner’s go-to mascara for women over 50 is Chanel’s long-wearing Inimitable Mascara. Why? She says it’s because this luxe mascara “…boasts a flexible pronged brush and pro-vitamin B5-laced jet-black formula that nourishes the hairs while providing natural definition”. Lashes and brows become sparse and brittle with age, so using a nourishing mascara becomes important. You can also nourish and thicken your sparse brows and lashes by including Revitabrow by Revitalash and Revitalash Advanced in your nightly face care routine.
I use LavishLash and have seen promising results for a fraction of the cost. LavisLash can be used on both the eyelashes and brows to promote their growth and thicken them.
It’s also helpful to take a daily dose of Biotin to nourish your brows, lashes, and skin from the inside out. Biotin helps your nails grow too!
- Take it Easy on Your Brows
Since our brows become sparser as we age, care for the ones you have and just trim them to avoid accidental over plucking. Liner loves to use Troy Suratt’s Expressioniste Brow Pencil on her clients. It’s thin enough to draw on an individual hair here and there. The colors are Blonde, Brunette, and Raven. All the colors are natural-looking and subtle. Go light with the pencil. Instead of filling in the whole brow area, just stroke on a hair or two in any patchy areas and add a few more well placed hairs to emphasize the arch.
Individual results may vary.
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